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Fear
is a good thing. It helps us to stay alive. It alerts us to
impending danger so that we can take action to protect ourselves
from the threat. It is a vital part of survival. Of course, if
it becomes the status quo, it no longer serves such a function
and can eat away at us physically and psychologically. But, an
occasional heightened state of anxiety is part of life.
I
meet all sorts of people who own dogs. There is a subset of
individuals who are so worried about their dog’s happiness that
reason and common sense sometimes fails them. These are the
folks who fret more about how the dog “feels” than how it
behaves. Sadly, I don’t think that they are actually very good
at truly determining how a dog is feeling, anyway. Folded back
ears of submission are misinterpreted as fear. Sulking behavior
is seen as anguish, rather than the truly anti-social act that
it is. Submission is a good thing. If the dog doesn’t submit,
then the dog is the dominant one in the relationship which is
not only unnatural for the dog, but dangerous for the human.
Sulking is a way some dogs try to get the upper hand in the
relationship, and therefore can be considered a precursor to
dominant type behavior. Brooding is best ignored in the same
way that the behavior should be disregarded when children feel
sorry for themselves, lest you create a terribly spoiled kid.
We all get afraid sometimes. I was anxious for a few months
before my birthday that coincided with the renewal of my
driver’s license. I was going to have to take “the test” and it
frightened me. The fear of failure helped me to prepare for the
test and eventually succeed. When triggers in the environment
cause angst, it’s prudent to take heed and sometimes take
action. When a thunderstorm is brewing in the distance, my
sheep walk back to the barn and hold up there until the bad
weather passes. Who says sheep are dumb?
The
reason that I refer to fear-based behaviors as anti-social is
related to how I describe the term social. Social doesn’t mean
friendly. Consider a big Golden Retriever that overruns your
personal space, shoves his muzzle into your crotch or leaps upon
you all with a quite gleeful, friendly disposition. Yet, in
doggie-terms, he is acting anti-social, since a higher ranking
dog would never permit him to invade his personal space in such
a rude manner. To be social is to understand one’s position in
the society (family, pack, work group) and respect that order.
In a
social species, such as humans or dogs, the lower ranking
individuals will typically look up to the higher ranking ones in
a time of crisis or a situation that triggers fear. In species
that are not social, by nature, an individual usually chooses
fight or flight when it becomes frightened. A squirrel simply
takes matters into his own paws and either runs or stays to
fight when threatened. When an individual in a social special
chooses fight or flight, it can be considered an anti-social
act, as it is not recognizing the hierarchical society in which
it resides.
During a walk with its owner, a dog that lunges or barks at a
neighboring dog is acting in an anti-social manner. This is not
so much because it is acting ugly towards another dog, but
because his is not recognizing his owner as the “top dog”. He
is not permitting his owner to assess and address perceived
threats. He is usurping his owner’s authority. When that same
dog chooses to bolt from (rather than aggress towards) perceived
danger, he is also disrespecting his leader’s position. In
either scenario, the dog should be corrected for such behavior.
Choosing fight or flight is anti-social.
Typically, people can understand that a dog which presents with
excessive exuberance (such as the Golden Retriever described
above) or aggressive behavior (like the lunging, barking dog)
should be corrected for the anti-social act. However, in my
experience, many people do not understand that behaviors rooted
in fear demand the same intervention, or the unacceptable
behaviors will probably continue. That means that I am
suggesting correcting a dog that is presenting a fear-based
behavior, if that behavior is deemed undesirable. It’s very
important to understand that the dog is not being corrected for
his fear. He is being corrected for bolting from his leader,
for example, which is a disrespectful act.
Any
times that a person corrects a dog, she should remain calm and
relaxed. Correcting a dog that chooses to run off and leave his
handler’s umbrella of authority is a way to explain to the dog
that his behavior is unacceptable. If a correction is performed
properly, the behavior will change. He will learn quickly that
bolting is not appropriate. A dog that was once shaking and
afraid can become calm and relaxed so long as the handler
remains composed and sends the proper message to the dog. A
troubled or worried handler will create a psychologically
unbalanced dog.
The
problem that arises when working with a dog that is afraid of
thunderstorms is that the owner tends to be unable to separate
the behaviors that are acceptable versus those that should be
corrected. There are people who simply don’t want the dog to be
afraid and focus on that more than anything else. Here’s the
reality. You cannot fix fear or make it go away. It is
controlled by the autonomic nervous systems. Autonomic means
“automatic”. The dog does not have control over whether he will
feel fear or not. However, he can control other behaviors that
tend to present when he becomes afraid. It is those behaviors
on which the owner should focus.
As an
example, I do not mind if the dog drools. He cannot control it,
anyway. And, if that is how he is going to manifest fear, then,
that is how he is going to manifest fear. I do not mind if the
dog quivers or shakes for the same reason. Many people are very
unnerved that their dog drools or trembles when he is nervous or
anxious. I have news for you. We humans perspire when we get
worried. Asking a dog to stop drooling is like asking a human
to stop perspiring. In both species, it is a way of dissipating
the heat that may be built up in the body during stressful
situations. I would rather my dog drooled than over heated.
Fix
the behaviors that you don’t want – ignore the behaviors that
you don’t mind.
I
don’t mind if my dog decides to hold out in the bathtub during a
storm. I have had more than one dog choose that location to
wait for fairer weather. That’s a behavior that I tolerate. If
he’s going to drool, I cannot imagine a better place for him to
hang out. I don’t mind if the dog goes under the bed, in his
crate or curls up next to my feet with his paw over the top of
my shoe, yes, even if he is quivering all the while. If that is
what comforts him when it rains, I’m cool with that.
I do
not expect my dogs to remain outside during a storm. I think
that’s ridiculous. While I happen to love weather, and I find
watching a front come into the area beautiful and exciting, most
experts would tell me to get inside before the lightening could
strike me dead. I think it is unreasonable to expect a dog to
go outside during a storm. But, that is me. Everyone needs to
determine what behavior they choose to tolerate and which ones
they need to resolve
For
example, I will not tolerate a dog that tries to climb up my
body when he is afraid. I do not want stiffened claws digging
into my flesh anytime, regardless of the weather. I do not
allow a dog to go under my desk where he can pull out the cords
of my computer equipment. I don’t want a dog to try to escape
the door or a window during a storm. I had a dog, once, that
chewed out of his crate, opened the back door with his teeth
(the door knob still has evidence of his behavior) jump out of
our 5.5’ fenced yard into a pasture that had 4’ high perimeter
fencing out of which he jumped, as well. He ran two miles away
and we did not recover him for four days after posting many
“lost dog” signs. So, escaping behavior is not tolerated,
regardless of how frightened the dog might become of a storm.
Once
the list of acceptable versus unacceptable behaviors is
identified, one can begin to tackle the behaviors (not the
feelings) that the dog is presenting during storms. If the dog
feels safe in his crate, I manage the whole situation by simply
crating the dog. I have had a number of dogs that fit this
scenario. When a storm is threatening, I simply put the dog in
his crate and ignore him until the bad weather passes. He can
shake, drool or whine and be safe, all at the same time.
If
the dog feels unsafe in his crate, but safe near me, then I
permit the dog to be with me. If he feels best touching me, in
some way, and I don’t mind that level of touch, I permit the dog
to put his paw or chin on my foot, for example. I will gently
pet, but not coddled, a dog in this situation, too. But, if he
begins to push deeper into my personal space, I correct him the
same way that I would correct him if it wasn’t storming
outside. This article is not designed to teach a person how to
correct a dog properly. I have written a book on that (which
you may purchase at
Amazon.com.
A correction is not paired with negative energy, it is
sufficient to change the dog’s behavior, but is not excessively
harsh. A correction is defined by the recipient, not by the one
administering it. It implies that the behavior has been
“corrected” or “fixed”. If the behavior continues, again, the
action was probably not a correction, regardless of what the
person who delivered it might think.
If
the dog paces around the room and I find that unacceptable
(which I would), I would demand that the dog sits or lies down
and stays, “no matter what”, and I would correct him if he
thought about getting back up, again. I would do so promptly
and without any anger. In my opinion, it would be unwise to try
to train a fearful dog during a storm. So, clearly, the
training must happen before the dog is asked to behave properly
during a storm. That is a very good reason to practice high
level obedience to authority on a daily basis; it becomes very
useful during times when the dog would be more apt to disregard
commands. A solid, “down no-matter-what” command is probably
the most useful behavior for thunder-phobic dogs. Permitting
the dog to lie close to you, but not on top of you, when he is
afraid gives him something to do besides thinking about the
electrical storm. He cannot pace if he is lying down. He
cannot try to climb out of a window, if he is lying down.
Regardless of what other behaviors he may be presenting (such as
drooling or quivering) simply choose the behavior you expect and
reinforce that behavior.
Acknowledging that the dog is afraid does not mean that you need
to acknowledge the cause of his fear. Doing so will probably
validate his feelings that thunderstorms are very dangerous.
Ignoring the storm, rather than startling to every boom or
lightening bolt is prudent, even if you do have a fear of
storms, yourself. When taking a kid to receive a vaccination,
it’s best to refrain from showing your own fear of needles to
the child, if you want to help her through the experience.
1.
1.
Recognize that fear is natural and that it is controlled
by the autonomic nervous system.
2.
2.
Do not attempt to control fear.
3.
3. Recognize
that excessively excited, balking or bolting behavior,
even when the dog is feeling fearful, is still disrespectful and
unmannerly (anti-social).
4.
4.
Focus on unacceptable behavior rather than how you think
that the dog might be feeling. Address Behavior Not
Emotion.
5.
5. Manage
the dog by putting him in a place he feels safe (such as his
crate). It may be a very viable option for handling some
fearful dogs.
6.
6. Train
your dog to a very high standard of obedience to commands in the
presence of distractions. Use that training during a storm –
reinforcing your expectations, even if the dog is presenting
other fear-driven behavior. He only has lie down - not
stop drooling or shaking.
7.
7. Remain calm.
Refrain from becoming frazzled, anxious, frustrated,
disappointed or nervous as a handler, especially if your dog is
experiencing fear.
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