We are following your recommendations on "How To Housebreak A Puppy" for the most part.  However, more than 1/2 the time outside is spent with our three year old dog, Ellie.  Those two fight and play but he doesn't seem to get distracted from doing his business.  He "herds" her all over the backyard.  But, when he latches on to Ellie, he won't let go until she manages to fling him 3 or 4 feet by spinning.  Doesn't hurt him but he's right back in there a second later.  Ellie's no help .... she seems to enjoy the company and the playtime, although aggressive.  Toys don't interest him outside..... just Ellie's neck.  When it gets too rough I put Jenny outside the fence.

 

When he is playing inside (Ellie is always outside), I get down on the floor with him and get as close as I can to anything he is chewing on.  I pet him and talk to him (I do the same thing when he is eating) ..... anything I can do to get him used to me being right there without biting.  BUT, as soon as he's done with the toy he is playing with ...you better watch out ...because those teethe are coming and a lot of the time its right toward your face.  He plays with toys like a coyote trying to kill a jack-rabbit.  Head shaking back-n-forth 90 miles an hour.

1.  DO NOT allow your Border Collie Puppy to  "HERD" non-herd-able objects, including other dogs, people, cats, vehicles, bicycles etc....  This is a REALLY big no-no that many folks do not know, and in fact, because it is "cute" and "means that they are good herding dogs", is often encouraged.  It doesn't mean anything about how they will herd livestock, but it can teach them that it's more fun to herd on THEIR terms, rather than herd for their human handler (when the time comes).   It isn't "cute" when it becomes an obsession.  There is really nothing more difficult to cure than an "obsession".   It's really tough, not to mention, the one that is being herded usually doesn't appreciate it and can turn and "correct" the pup and damage him. 

2.  TRY VERY HARD to get Butch to be bonded to you, not Ellie.  So, if it were me, I'd be taking Butch outdoors alone most of the time.  He can play with Ellie at times, but mostly, when you go outdoors, you should take him alone and teach him to follow you and "worry" about you.  There's a period of time between 6 and about 12 or 14 weeks when a puppy is "programmed" to "follow the big object" (such as the mother dog).  After about 14 weeks old, the pup is confident enough to go off on his own and doesn't "need" you as much.  So, it's really important to use that period wisely.  You will NEVER get it back again.  Teach the pup to follow you, not another dog, during that time.  It requires more time to manage multiple dogs, but only for a few months.

 

3.  NEVER ALLOW CANINE TEETH ON HUMAN FLESH.  This is a standard that we set with the puppies we raise from about 5 weeks onwards.  With every litter, I need to spend time teaching the puppies to keep their teeth off of a human.  Some pups have a more natural reverence for people.  Sometimes, people will consider those puppies "shy" or "submissive", but really, for a pet, those puppies make great companions because they aren't "shy" they are showing appropriate respect for an authority figure.  Other puppies believe that a human is just like another puppy - to jump on, to play with (with teeth), to tug on, pull around, etc....  Those puppies need a serious lesson in biting which most humans are wholly ill equipped to perform.  It's not uncommon for me to correct a puppy for biting in front of its new owner (when they come to fetch their new "baby").  That's because someone in the family allows the pup to use his teeth (some people call this "teething" or "mouthing" or "play biting") and it's important for me to show them how to resolve the issue.  I recall one family came for their pup and the 13 year old boy began swirling his foot around because the pup had found interest in his shoe laces.  The boy was, essentially, teaching the puppy to chase and bite right before our eyes!  It "looks" cute, but it's a recipe for disaster.  

To a pup, the one that allows teeth to touch flesh is "equal" or "lower" ranking, and humans send the wrong message to a pup by allowing the behavior.  The pup squeals from the correction and the new owners FREAK OUT.  But, the correction needs to create the squeal or it probably wasn't effective.  If it isn't effective, then the puppy considers it "fair play" and will bite back even harder - the same way two pups will play with each other.   To correct a pup that bites you need to do what a high ranking, competent adult dog would do.  Use your hand, take the pup by the skin around the back of the neck or cheek, use your best finger nail (usually a thumb nail is toughest), to pinch the skin so that it hurts the puppy and feels like a good bite.  Make certain you remain totally calm and relaxed and that you do not project anger, frustration, disappointment or anguish.  Simply correct the puppy hard enough so that he yelps.  You can also expect the pup to sulk and try to avoid you for a while (minutes to perhaps 1/2 a day).  DO NOT GIVE INTO HIS APPEARANCE and feel sorry.  Instead, ignore him.  The longer the pup has been allowed to dominate a human with his teeth, the harder he will fall in rank and so the more likely he will sulk a good long while.   I have to correct just about every puppy I raise, at least once.   You should not have to correct a pup more than once or twice or you can be assured you are NAGGING the pup, not truly correcting it. 

 

THERE IS A FOLLOW-UP TO THIS QUESTION CLICK HERE